DIARY OF AN AUSSIE WOMBAT

HELLO NORTHERN TERRITORY

"THE RED CENTRE", "THE OUTBACK"

NITMILUK (Net-mar-look) NATIONAL PARK

KATHERINE GORGE N.T

(We can now say we have been to all states and territories in Australia)

Feeling very 'travelled'...

Recalling how much fuss and ado there was travelling into WA, we didn't know what to expect as we prepared to cross the WA heading into NT checkpoint. So, remembering all the stories we had been told. Mum came up with a good idea, she cooked all the remaining vegetables and tomatoes that we had into recipe bases and then froze them. You can take this food across the border but only if they're cooked. Mum spent a long time doing this and finally put in six one litre containers full of her recipe base for stews and casseroles... but guess what? They don't care at all really and didn't even stop us to check! Mum said "are you serious"? Still, she did realise they would be much less fuss and bother now that the bases were all prepared so more time could be had exploring, walking and doing other essential stuff, you know like swimming, and playing hide and seek.

We stopped at Kununurra and looked around and what was to be happening and to do some shopping at Woolies. Dad said he didn't need peanut butter, mum had a shocked look on her face... and whispered to me (I sat in the baby seat on the trolley) "Dad doesn't want peanut butter? What is this.. a parallel universe"? Mum told me 'any money that he runs out before next shopping day". After refuelling and some supplies, we continued on our way to the next major town "Katherine" as we intended to stop at Katherine Gorge. Dad's back and legs were still giving him trouble so instead of going on all the walks, dad paid for us to go on a four hour cruise with a First Nation guide his name was Jason too! He was great! And told us the best way to see the gorge is to drive up there... ha ha.

He took us to where big rock paintings were and told the story about what they meant. I wondered about the two people that were painted upside down. He told me 'they were two naughty elders, who decided to get involved in bad magic, they became cursed and when they died... the other elders painted them upside down so they couldn't come back in the afterlife to the tribe.. they could only go down where Mother earth would keep them'.

Bolong is the name the First Nation people here "The Jawoyn" gave to their Rainbow Serpent or their God. He swam and dug his way weaving back and forth through all 13 gorges and where he died at the end of his work. We travelled down the last three gorges, or the Rainbow Serpents tail. All three were magnificent but we wondered where the freshwater crocodiles were... (I didn't but mum and dad did). Jason told us, because of the cane toad and the total lack of the maternal instinct and where the females laid their eggs. The numbers have fallen from 5,000 to just 1,000 in three years. He told us that the alpha female laid her eggs high on the sandy banks, I noticed that there were many places where the two legs were not allowed to go as it was an important breeding area for the fresh water crocodiles. The younger females had to lay their eggs in a more exposed place, and when the wet season came, it was more likely that all these eggs were destroyed, eaten or just washed away. He went on to tell us that the fresh water crocodile lays their eggs in just 30 centimeters of sand and that's not very deep at all, while the salt water crocodile makes mounds after laying their eggs deep down in the earth/sand and then guard them. The 'freshies' as Jason said, were not very good mums... they would look after the eggs until they were hatched then 'onya bike kids... have a good life'. Salt water crocodiles cared for their young for a few months, then left them to fend for themselves. The Saltwater crocodile numbers have risen due to the latest really good amount of rainfall and buffalo venture too close to the water's edge and the barramundi have also bred well so a good feed of Beef'n'Barra was never far away from the Saltie's menu.

It was Jason who told us about how the Whistling Kite and the Crow (Raven) have learned how to eat the Cane Toad which has killed many a fresh water crocodile because of the poison they carry. The Crows attack them and the flip them over and only eat the bottom half, Jason told us that the crows are also very clever at unzipping backpacks and nicking food and other stuff so if we decided to leave the backpacks on board when we went for a walk turn the zipper side down, and tie it as best you can. What cheeky birds! Jason went on to tell us how the Whistling Kite dealt with the Cane Toad. They would swoop down grab the toad with their Talons on the toads back legs and then soar really high up into the sky and then drop them on a road from way up in the sky.. of course, you can imagine the result! "SPLAT!" Fly down flip them over and eat the bottom half. Animals are so intelligent that they can work that out.. I should know, I am an intelligent animal too.. although I draw the line at touching cane toads.. nasty smelly things!

We finished out tour after a wonderful swim in Katherine Gorge, it was cold but refreshing! mum and dad loved it! Jason stood and watched as we and the other passengers all had a swim in one of the large rock pools that was 'croc safe'.. just in case.

We were sorry that the cruise finished as we had learned so much... but we had to return to the van for dinner. We walked back past thousands of fruit bats and I mean thousands, there were two colonies there and each colony was about 1,000 plus. Some of the bats were black and some were 'the little red flying fox' kind. Jason told us that while the bats didn't weigh much individually, the numbers have been known to bring down giant limbs of trees and even the tree itself when the bats were too 'lopsided'. I discovered an interesting thing that afternoon as we passed by them all.... when there are a lot of them THEY STINK! peeee-uwwwwww!

I have put a lot of photos of the gorge on here without comment... They speak for themselves.

Enjoy the pics!
Onward with our journey!

Tahune xx